Le Moulin Bregeon is the kind of hidden treasure that you only really unearth if you’re fortunate enough to get the secret shoulder tap. “Hey! I stayed at the BEST place. It’s kind of hard to explain how good it is. Pics don’t really do it justice. You have to go.”
We got the tap, Barbra Streisand got the tap, and now we’re giving YOU the tap. So listen up when we say that a stay at Le Moulin Bregeon is beyond special. It supersedes magical. It will join the birth of your children in the highlight reel that flashes before your eyes at the end of your life. Trust us. Trust Barbra.
Location: Linieres-Bouton, France.
Flight time from Perth, WA: 17 hours to Paris, 2.5 hours to Linieres-Bouton.
Linieres-Bouton is not exactly a town. It’s a municipality set on the banks of the Loire and a teeny tiny one at that; only 84 humans call it home, and a portion of those are said to claim lineage to Napoleon’s mother.
The village has a 12th century church, a 15th century castle and an 18th century mill on its outskirts; there are a few bendy roads and endless sprawling Loire countryside. In short: it’s beautiful, quaint and whisper quiet.
But back to that 18th century mill. A three-storey building where the town’s flour was once ground for bread, with a giant mill wheel still slicing through the centre, it was purchased by artist Jonathan Robinson in 1991. It wasn’t in great shape, having been abandoned and fallen into disrepair (its previous owner was an elderly French man who lived on the property with his seven goats).
Aside from being an accomplished artist, Jonathan is a dedicated aesthete and a fine human who detests modern ideologies with the heat of a thousand suns. After buying the mill, he lovingly and painstakingly transformed it into a five-suite guesthouse, literally running an IV of passion, love and fastidiousness straight from his heart to its veins. By his side: two French business partners Bernard Levenez and Pascal Merillou, who chef and manage and maître d’ and chase chooks out the dining room, amongst everything in between.
When you stay at Le Moulin Bregeon, you’ll get to know these fine humans well; eating with them (fresh produce is often plucked straight from the garden) sharing stories and filling wine glasses to the brim under the stars in summer or by a roaring fire in winter. During the day, you can do whatever you desire – fill your days with cooking classes, learning the cuisine de terroir, go biking, or discover the heart-booming chateaus, caves and vineyards of the Loire. The guys want your visit here to be the stuff of dreams, so talk to them and see what they come up with.
Of course, it’s easy to do absolutely nothing and merely wander and while hours away at the mill, too. Jonathan’s taste is exquisite, and it shows in every corner of the lush grounds, every stitch of French linen, every artwork adorning the walls, every thoughtfully sourced antique. I mean, Barbra Streisand has stayed here and she can’t be wrong, right?
Best bit: Sigh, where do we start? Does anything beat eating homemade beef bourguignon with new friends around a vintage dining table while being serenaded by French love songs? Days spent exploring and antique shopping with Jonathan who, aside from being a walking encyclopaedia, is warm, utterly hilarious and always thought-provoking. Becoming a dribbly weepy mess from the beauty and history. Sleeping in Barbra’s preferred suite.
Worst bit: Nothing, nil, zilch. Just remember to reserve breakfast, lunch and dinner because there’s literally nowhere else to eat.
Le Moulin Bregeon
795 Rue de Lac, Linieres-Bouton, France.
Getting there: The easiest route here is by catching a TGV train from Gare Montparnasse in Paris to Tours, then changing to a TER train in Tours and making your way to Saumur. One of the Le Moulin Bregeon team can pick you up from Saumur station by prior arrangement. The whole trip will take around 2.5 hours from Paris.
Cost: Best to check for up-to-date prices. Starts from around $393 a night.
Best suits: Those looking for a romantic getaway in the heart of French wine country; those seeking an elegant stay in the Loire Valley that’s a little different and a whole lot of special.
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